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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.